Chapter the Second: Phonsavanh and the Plain of Magic Jars

View from the hotel room, Phonsavanh

How many times must I tell you - DON'T play with weapons at the breakfast table

Souvenir bomblet outside a shop

A pleasant pheasant, a former squirrel, and a bag of horse eggs

and a rare, um...

The rich can afford lawnmowers

Toni & Guy, Phonsavanh Central.

Walk Safely in Laos 101

Jar lid. Most were destroyed by looters probably hoping for treasure inside jars. Few lids can be seen now because they have sunk into the mud during the annual monsoons.

they missed this treasure

Ancient Buddhist stupa destroyed by looters

and many with bullet holes

Swallow trap. Laotians are fond of eating pickled swallows.

In the 70s war these trenches were covered by greenery. Agent Orange fixed that. They still can't grow much here, even grass.

Right lid, wrong jar. Replaced not too long ago for the benefit of tourists

Probably placed here last week? If it had been here since the 70s it would have sunk into the mud during wet seasons, surely...

bomb crater

Slash-and-burn agriculture in the distance. Fires often cause concealed UXOs to explode. This path was typical of the cattle paths we followed along ridges - our 'steer trek' ho ho

Now, which side of the white markers was it safe to walk...? Er...

Exotic foreigners to perve on

Damn, I forgot to bring a straw.

Dropped and smashed by the CIA helicopters in the '70s

Handy Woolies enviro-friendly carry-baskets for your take-away chook

The Lao Bar Association, Phonsavanh. Every building here is new since the 70s.

This Phonsavanh hotel souvenired a jar to save visitors the bother of going out to the countryside

Flashest house in Phonsavanh

Typical govt department

Laos Airlines